Discover the Secret Side of Venice
All tourists take gondola rides, but kayaking allows you to explore the city most don't see.
Venice may be obviously, even overwhelmingly beautiful. Despite its circular alleys and its pastel palazzos, Italy’s most touristy city (only 55,000 people actually live in Venice’s historic center, which gets a whopping 20 million people a year) always feels like it’s withholding something.
Sure, you can work your way down a litany of prescribed tourist sites–the crowds of San Marco, the Rialto, the Accademia–but every street you turn down, every bridge you cross, you’re always glancing out of the corner of your eye at the path not taken, wondering if there’s a hidden private party going on at the piano nobile, or first story, of a random palazzo (during Carnival season, in February, there probably is), whether an unmarked courtyard leads to a still-better trattoria in town.
It was on my fifth visit to Venice that I started to realize that it’s only possible to really see Venice by staying on the water, rather than on land. I’d chosen a baroque floating hotel of sorts whose 10-day tour wisely focuses its efforts on the Venetian lagoon. The winding geography of the city–so dizzying on land–makes perfect sense from a narrow river boat; The constant motion–as we docked near the Biennale one night, near the Accademia the next–highlights the dazed, dreamlike atmosphere of trying to maneuver the city, where every moonlit wrong turn seems to take you into an alternate parallel universe.
But it is only once I board my kayak, slipping out a back door in a 15th-century palazzo in a tiny, unmarked courtyard in Cannareggio and finding myself straight on the water–that I really discovered the heart of the city.
As we kayak from Cannareggio to the Jewish ghetto, where white sheets hang from laundry lines–latticing the canal–over our heads, our guide showed me a completely different Venice to the one I’ve seen for years: a Venice where the grand front entrances of palaces open straight onto the brackish, blue-green water, where locals drive their personal boats past the slick obsidian vessels of the gondeliers (whatever you do, the guide made clear, do not scratch their boats). Locals call out directions in dialect as they turn each blind corner; the vaporetto water-taxis make perilous waves as we try to cross the Grand Canal. Families sit on balconies, looking out windows, over canals inaccessible from the street.
Venice will never give up all its secrets. But ninety minutes into my kayaking–my arms sore and my shoulders sunburned–I’ve learned a few more.
Tara Isabella-Burton, who is a frequent contributor for National Geographic Travel, recently wrote about her favorite Italian island. Follow her travels on Twitter.
Go Further
Animals
- How can we protect grizzlies from their biggest threat—trains?How can we protect grizzlies from their biggest threat—trains?
- This ‘saber-toothed’ salmon wasn’t quite what we thoughtThis ‘saber-toothed’ salmon wasn’t quite what we thought
- Why this rhino-zebra friendship makes perfect senseWhy this rhino-zebra friendship makes perfect sense
- When did bioluminescence evolve? It’s older than we thought.When did bioluminescence evolve? It’s older than we thought.
- Soy, skim … spider. Are any of these technically milk?Soy, skim … spider. Are any of these technically milk?
Environment
- Are the Great Lakes the key to solving America’s emissions conundrum?Are the Great Lakes the key to solving America’s emissions conundrum?
- The world’s historic sites face climate change. Can Petra lead the way?The world’s historic sites face climate change. Can Petra lead the way?
- This pristine piece of the Amazon shows nature’s resilienceThis pristine piece of the Amazon shows nature’s resilience
- Listen to 30 years of climate change transformed into haunting musicListen to 30 years of climate change transformed into haunting music
History & Culture
- Meet the original members of the tortured poets departmentMeet the original members of the tortured poets department
- Séances at the White House? Why these first ladies turned to the occultSéances at the White House? Why these first ladies turned to the occult
- Gambling is everywhere now. When is that a problem?Gambling is everywhere now. When is that a problem?
- Beauty is pain—at least it was in 17th-century SpainBeauty is pain—at least it was in 17th-century Spain
Science
- Here's how astronomers found one of the rarest phenomenons in spaceHere's how astronomers found one of the rarest phenomenons in space
- Not an extrovert or introvert? There’s a word for that.Not an extrovert or introvert? There’s a word for that.
- NASA has a plan to clean up space junk—but is going green enough?NASA has a plan to clean up space junk—but is going green enough?
- Soy, skim … spider. Are any of these technically milk?Soy, skim … spider. Are any of these technically milk?
Travel
- Could Mexico's Chepe Express be the ultimate slow rail adventure?Could Mexico's Chepe Express be the ultimate slow rail adventure?
- What it's like to hike the Camino del Mayab in MexicoWhat it's like to hike the Camino del Mayab in Mexico